:
        Get a low trailer custom made for easy launching.  Our boat sits about 15 inches off the road.
        We put our "centerboard" off center 12" to port for more space in the cabin.  The head is on the narrow side of the c'board case.  This also puts the c'board winch clear of the mizzen mast.
       We built the short rig with carbon spars for easy launching and trailering. 
       Give the motor (8hp Honda for us) 4" more room fore and aft than Kirby allots.

Yes we have carbon spars, from Composite Engineering in Concord MA.  The Sea Pearl has spars from Bergstrom and Ridder in Florida.  Probably either place could provide the spars for your boat.  Our mainmast is 32'10" long and the raw tube was supposed to weigh 42 lbs.  I never did weigh it, raw or finished.  The mizzen is 23' and was supposed to weigh 12 lbs raw.  It is light enough to stick directly in the step.  The mainmast is light enough to tip up but it is too big and ungainly to control in a crosswind.  So, I designed a beefy hinge that controls lateral movement while raising and prevents it from going on over the bow.  this is on an "elevator" that is built into the aluminum mast socket in the bow.  The elevator is a two-part tackle and some plastic parts that lowers the mast into the step and pushes it out. The drill is to raise the elevator, slip the mast over the rotating part of the hinge, tip the mast up and lower into the socket.  The mast goes about 2 feet into the socket which is about 5 feet long.  The elevator resides under the mast in the socket.  The top of the socket is even with the top of the cabin so that it can support the mast while trailering.  This whole thing works perfectly for us.  We are just under 8' on the trailer.  I am familiar with the Sea Pearl arrangement.  That would work except that there might not be enough of the socket above deck level give you the jack-knife effect.  The mizzen on the NIS is light enough that it doesn't need any mechanism.

We have an  aluminum plate for the centerboard.  My research indicates that going for a full NACA foil is not worth the trouble for the CB, At least for a cruising boat.  I am impressed by Klaus's dual asymmetrical centerboards but they must have taken many hours to build.  The rudder is another story.  Having a well shaped rudder makes a big difference in the way the boat handles.  Our rudder is 1.5" thick which is about 6% of the cord.  This is a little thin but we have a good shape on it and it works well.  Do not build the steel board option that Kirby describes.  I have two reports of them warping during galvanizing and then binding in the slot.

We can detect no difference between tacks with the off center board.  It could ventilate when heeled way over on port tack but then it is time to reef anyway.